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Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Soul Burgers, Juke Joint and Ghosts


One of my favorite fun haunts is a stone's throw from the Mississippi River in Memphis. After some of the swankiest parties and hottest tickets in town, if you moize on down to Ernestine and Hazel's joint, chances are you'll be at the after party, celebrities and tourist alike. Oh Lordy, you haven't lived until you've downed one of their juicy Soul Burgers in the wee hours of the morning. Sure there's a secret recipe, it's cooked on a grill that is flavored with enough years to garner it retirement. And some say this legendary bar serves up two kinds of spirits. Some from a bottle, and some from beyond!

A noisy brothel once thrived upstairs and a couple of barflies have apparently turned out to be ghosts. It's just a turn of the century pharmacy turned bar where the doors swing open at five but the real action doesn't heat up until midnight. Watch as Soul Burgers are cooked to order behind the bar. Won't you have one more beer and think about all those who have been within these four walls over time. Honky tonk angels and society mavens alike are belly up to the bar side by side. Rendezvous ended, hearts mended, songs written - God only knows! It can happen at Ernestine and Hazel's.

The jukebox churns that Memphis sound and beckons you to the dance floor. Those in the know venture upstairs into various rooms bathed in dim blue suede light and furnished with retro vinyl sofas and rummage sale tables. Don't let your mind wander to what took place here, just listen to the piano music drifting down the hall. Ray Charles hung out here in the 50's - could it be what gave Elvis, Isaac Hayes, Al Green and Justin their Memphis groove?

Keep poking around and in a room lit by the bar's neon sign outside the window you'll find Nate, the bartender who's just...well...waiting for you, who cares the time. He's been around since the Roaring Twenties and doesn't have any plans for moving on. If you want to talk, he'll listen, if not, chances are he's heard it before. Drink up, drown your sorrows, muster up the nerve for what faces you tomorrow, or just sit there. Either way, Nate's there but if you dare to engage this genteel old soul in conversation, listen closely and don't miss a thing. No one knows it or can tell it like he does about souls in this world and beyond.
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19 comments:

darsden said...

sounds wonderful and I can almost smell it.. I bet they are the best around those burgers.. love ole diners...ma and paw places...blue plate special please :-)

GingerV said...

nothing like hearing about a place from someone who knows and loves it. better than any advertisement. and hearing the jazz playing while I read seemed to add a fourth dimesion

susan said...

You'll probably run into one of my "kids" there--it's their favorite "late night" spot!

Lori E said...

My husband and I love to find these special "locally known" places to eat at. Food channels are even doing shows on them now.

Cedar ... said...

Libby, you always find just the right background music for your posts. Once again you ace'd it!

Mumzie said...

Libby, You just have too much fun with all your twirling! I love it. Thanks for sharing. Hugs, Mumzie

Michelle said...

I walk by E&H's every night when my dog and I go out for our after dinner walk. I have lots of stories to tell but mainly that E&H's has become so much a part of downtown that you cannot imagine South Main without it.

Marci said...

Memphis rocks.

bj said...

OOO, I love this post...to tell you the truth..in my long lifetime, I have had more fun at the juke joints than any other time or place! We danced, drank a little...sometimes a little too much..ate the best food anywhere...
met the best people that some have ended up being life long friends of mine...oh, yes...the joints are so so much a part of my past...and I miss 'em...Thanks for the fun memories...
xo bj

Wsprsweetly Of Cottages said...

What a great post. I almost felt I was right there. I have only been to Memphis once..many years ago...We surprised friends in the middle of the night..and had a great visit..Yes..I remember Memphis...

Hit 40 said...

Go girl! Great pics and red background! And... music.

Excellent

Blue Eyed Tango said...

Oh this looks like a wonderful place to blow a diet! Only thing is..... I'm not too crazy bout the ghost! We have an old hotel around the corner from where we live and the same thing is said about that place. They used to have ghost parties there. Love the neon sign! Perfect Ruby Tuesday post! Thanks for stopping by....oh, we were not in Hawaii recently....I was just reliving my days there since it was sleeting rain yesterday. We don't travel much anymore now that we have all the horses.

Raggedy Girl said...

What a wonderful description of what sounds like a fun place to visit, thank you.

Roberta Anne, the Raggedy Girl

Gaston Studio said...

Wonderful post, as usual, which is why I left something for you in my SECOND post today!

Domestic Designer said...

Sounds like a fun place! I can just taste the burgers! Have a great day!

Melissa Miller said...

This sounds so fun Libby! :)

Betsy from Tennessee said...

Hi Twirley, How are you today???? I'm SO glad to be home!!!!! Vacations are nice--but home is nicer!!!! ha

There are so many interesting places in Memphis. I haven't spent much time there---but always heard that it's the 'hottest' place in the US, and I mean temperature!!!! ha

Hugs,
Betsy

nikkicrumpet said...

What a wonderful description of what sounds like a fabulous place! You made me feel like I was actually there. And I now wish I was! Thanks for taking us along. And thanks for stopping by my blog...I love following people home!

Blondie's Journal said...

What a great place! Have never been to Memphis but am slowly eating my way through all 50 states. A Soul Burger is upcoming on my list!

xoxo
Jane